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| | GIRDLE
The girdle of a diamond is the narrow edge between the crown
and the pavilion which travels around the entire circumference
The G.I.A. divides girdle thickness into the following categories:
extremely thin, very thin, thin, medium, slightly thick, thick, very
thick, and extremely thick. Ideally, the girdle should be just thick
enough to prevent the diamond from chipping with normal wear.
A very thin to extremely thin girdle will not adequately protect the
diamond from chipping. A very thick to extremely thick girdle will adequately protect the diamond from chipping, but retains unnecessary weight. A medium girdle thickness is the most desirable because it adequately protects the diamond from chipping without retaining any unnecessary weight.
It is very important to understand how weight retention in the girdle affects the appearance of the diamond's size and its value. The fact is that when a diamond is being cut, an effective way to retain more weight from the rough diamond crystal is to leave a very thick girdle. The extra weight retained does nothing to improve the beauty of the diamond. It simply makes the diamond weigh more. As a result, a diamond with a very thick girdle looks smaller than a diamond with a medium girdle of the same weight.
For example: A diamond that is 6.0 millimeters in diameter should weigh approximately .80 ct. (if the stone is properly cut with a medium girdle). Now, take a diamond with a diameter of 6.0 millimeters which is properly cut, except for a very thick to
extremely thick girdle. This stone may weigh .90 ct. or even 1.00
ct. Now, does it make sense to pay a 1.00 ct. price for a diamond
that only looks like an .80 carat?
Lastly, it is important to point out that girdle thickness is rarely
consistent around the entire diamond. Usually the girdle will range in thickness as it travels around the diamond. Most girdles travel
through two to four girdle thickness categories.
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